Cruising the Coastline

After making our first big left turn (at the Pacific Ocean) to head south on Sunday, we have been making our way down the coastline. The first overnight stop on the ocean was in Newport, Oregon and the second one was just north of the California state line in Brookings, Oregon.
Oregon Forest Mountains

Oregon Forest Mountains

Oregon Coastline Vista View

Jeff above the Clouds

Sea Lions on the Shore

Sea Lions on the Shore

Orgeon Forest Shoreline

Orgeon Forest Shoreline

We decided we must be getting spoiled with the great views, because now as we approach each vista viewpoint we have to make a decision as to whether the view is “good enough” to stop and take pictures or not….and at this point, the bar is getting pretty darn high. There is just so much to see!

In the planning of the trip, we purposely setup the west coast travelling to be shorter distances because we knew the driving would be slower and therefore the days too long if we didn’t cut back on the miles to around 200 miles or less. Distance and time of driving for the days has been good, but we have been stopping to see so many different parks, beaches, hiking trails, towns, etc. that we are both feeling a bit fried today. Fortunately, today was a particularly short day of driving (about 120 miles) and we were able to get into Fortuna, California relatively early and call it day at that point.

Even though the day was short, we did manage to see quite a bit of stuff today with the primary goal of getting to see some of the various areas of the state and national Redwood Forests. Some of the areas of these parks are old growth trees – some in excess of 1000 years old and other areas are re-grown forests that are only 30 to 50 years old. It’s actually not trivial to tell the differences because the Redwood trees grow so fast; something like 5 to 10 feet per year. The only noticeable difference in the newly grown forests is that lack of the occasionally truly massive trees. The really old ones can be as much as 20 to 30 feet in diameter and in excess of 250 feet tall.

 

Really Big Trees

Really Big Tree

Really Really Big Tree

Really Really Big Tree

Really Big Squirrel

Really Really Big Squirrel

Really Big Paul Bunyon

Really Big Paul Bunyon

California Roadside Elk

Regular Sized Elk along Roadside

 

Based on our experiences of trying to do too much over the last few days via all the impromptu stops, we decided over dinner tonight for tomorrow and likely beyond we are reverting back to our original modus operandi of 3 or 4 planned stops each day and consciously driving past basically everything else. There is just too much to see for one trip!

Tomorrow we head south from Fortuna, CA more inland to Sonoma Valley just north of San Francisco.

The Pacific Ocean!

After 3329 miles of driving, today we made it to the Pacific ocean at Cannon Beach, Oregon! - What a great feeling as we came over the last mountain peak and the ocean came into view on the horizon. We couldn’t drive the car quite all the way to the water, but we did stop and walk the last quarter mile.
Haystack Rock in Cannon Beach

Haystack Rock in Cannon Beach

Before getting to the ocean today, we finished crossing most of Oregon yesterday via the routes along where the original historic Oregon Trail used by the pioneers went. Much of eastern Oregon was amazingly arid and desert like. Although as we got farther west, especially along the Columbia River valley things started getting greener and covered with the expected large pine trees. We found several really cool waterfalls coming down off the mountains into the valleys including the following one that was a few hundred feet high:

Horsetail Falls

Mt. Hood is still snow covered as is Mt. Adams and Mt. Saint Helens up in Washington. We didn’t know you would be able to see it, but Mt. Saint Helens is quite visible through the haze as you make your way up through the mountains between Portland and the Pacific Coast.
Mount St Helens

Mount St Helens

The rest of the pictures pretty much speak for themselves….
Columbia River Valley

Columbia River Valley

Corvette over the Pacific

Corvette over the Pacific

Sandra over the Pacific

Sandra over the Pacific

Cape Lookout Oregon

Cape Lookout Oregon

Oregon Coastline

Oregon Coastline

Devils Punchbowl

Devils Punchbowl

The Less Glamorous Side of Road Trips

While we are having a great time on our cross country road trip, we thought we would note the less glamorous side of things here too. First, is keeping the windshield reasonably free of bug splats…..which depending on conditions is something we do between two and three times a day…meaning once every 100 to 200 miles. The faster we drive, the more this seems to be needed.

Of course, there is also adding fuel to the car. We have been doing this approximately once at the end of every day of driving, although on some of the longer days in more remote areas we have topped off the tank here and there just to make sure we don’t run into any desperate situations. We have been averaging between 400 and 500 miles per fill-up.

Incidentally, the Corvette has averaged 28.2 MPG so far on the trip. This includes all local stop and go driving, quite a bit of higher speed driving across the open areas, mountain hill climbs, etc. If we stuck to just to the highways with the cruise control set to 75 MPH, we would be getting more like 32 or 33 MPG…..but we avoid cruise control and the interstates where possible/practical because that would take all the fun out of the driving!

Finally, there is the washing of the car….which is mainly for getting rid of the bug splats on the front fascia and cleaning off all the dirt that collects on the back of the car when driving on wet roads in particular. The car has been washed on an average of once every other day or so which works out to maybe once every 600 to 800 miles.

Potatoes and Plutonium

After a nice extra day layover relaxing in Jackson, WY, we moved out across Idaho towards Boise today. Once we made it over the mountains out of Wyoming and down into the heart of Idaho, the feel of Idaho is a bit like Iowa except that the corn is replaced by potatoes. To be fair to Idaho, while we were mainly on the same route as we were back in Iowa (US-20), it was not nearly as featureless as Iowa…perhaps just comparatively less dramatic than Yellowstone.

Besides all the potatoes, a noteworthy thing about Idaho is its historical and current ties to the development and support of using nuclear materials to generate electrical power. In fact, the very first experimental nuclear power plant was designed, built and successfully operated in Idaho. The first day that it was operated in 1951 by splitting Uranium atoms into Plutonium atoms, it powered four incandescent light bulbs.

On the second day of operation (a day later) it powered the entire facility in a self sustaining manner and operated until some sort of…almost…catastrophic experiment ended its operations about 10 years later.

While this test facility known as EBR-1 (Experimental Breeder Reactor-1) is right off US-20, it is quite literally out in the middle of nowhere with nothing for 50 miles in any direction except for the more modern facilities that have since replaced EBR-1 maybe 10 miles off in the distance.

Of course, they don’t let you get anywhere close to them unless you are presumably willing to deal with guys toting M-16’s.

After visiting EBR-1, we headed over to Arco, ID for lunch at a place named Pickles, and home to the “Atomic Burger”

However, as we approached the place, the neon green sign gave Sandra the shivers. She was apparently not quite so convinced that somehow radioactive materials were not going to be making it into our food even though Jeff explained to her that her “magnetic personality” would protect her.

To be fair, in addition to the generation of nuclear materials in Idaho, the state is also the place where virtually all radioactive waste is currently dumped…..so maybe the fear was not quite so farfetched. In any case, we skipped lunch and moved on along US-20 until we got to the Craters of the Moon National Monument and Preserve.

Apparently, this is the location where they first build EBR-0, but after it went super critical and melted everything within a 50 mile radius, this is what was left behind. Ok, maybe not. This place is the result of an ancient lava flow and somewhat resembles the big island of Hawaii, but without the volcanic peak. In any case, the “craters of the moon” seems appropriate for this very much out of place site in the middle of Idaho.

Tomorrow we head to Portland, OR as our new base for starting our journey down the Pacific Coast Highway!

Wyoming Drive By Shootings

The first place we visited in Wyoming was Devils Tower National Monument.  We first spotted the tower more than 20 miles away because it shoots up 1,267 feet in the middle nowhere. While visiting the tower we could see climbers making their way to the top which is a common occurrence during the summer.  Most people take 4-6 hours to do the climb, but in 1980 we understand that someone did it in only 18 minutes – without ropes.  For reference it took us longer to walk from the parking lot to the base of the tower.

The next stop was Yellowstone National Park.  It’s funny that they call it a “park” when you spend most of your time driving around because the park’s primary access roads alone cover over 230 miles. Of course, the Corvette loved the windy and open roads…hmm so did the driver!

As with everyone visiting the park, we saw Old Faithful “blow” and visited the other various Geysers.  We were a bit amazed at how active the area is and you definitely get the sense the Earth is still very much alive.  However, the more dramatic experience was seeing firsthand the glorious scenery and wildlife.  During our drive we had to stop to let Bison cross the road, watch Elk eat the grass and stay well clear of the Grizzly bear who was keeping the Rangers busy.  But more often we simply stopped to soak up the scenery. 

 

Speaking of the wildlife, apparently many people don’t understand the meaning of “wildlife”.

A geographically noteworthy thing about Yellowstone is the Continental Divide passes through the park.  This means that all water to the West of the divide goes towards the Pacific Ocean and to the East goes towards the Atlantic Ocean.  Fortunately the Corvette goes in any direction.

The final park we visited was Grand Teton – rich with majestic mountains and pristine lakes.  These, said Teddy Roosevelt when first he laid eyes on the Teton Range, “are what mountains are supposed to look like.”  We know our new friends from Belgium would agree.

Finally for a literal interpretation of “drive by shooting”, note that rodeo rider on the state welcome sign is riddled with bullet holes.

I Peed in Montana

About a month ago during the planning of this trip, Jeff realized that, once completed, there would have been only 3 states in all of the USA that he would not have visited yet.

Realizing that this was frustrating close to being a totally complete list, Jeff wondered which of the remaining states would have been practical to add to the list. Turns out that one state, the state of Montana, was only 11 miles out of the way from the nominal path to today’s stopping point of Cody, WY.

Having no particular place to go in Montana for this trip, the discussion came up of what constitutes a “visit” to a paritucular state. The general consensus was if you went to the bathroom in the state or slept there, then the state “counted” as being visted.

So, today I peed in Montana leaving only the following states left to visit after this trip:

  • Alaska
  • North Dakota

Tomorrow we head from Cody, WY to Yellowstone, Grand Teton and end up in Jackson, WY for a two night layover there. Our first “major” stop of the trip. Wow…the days are just flying by!

Hail to the Chiefs

When preparing for and planning this trip with the Corvette, there was one thing that worried us about having the Corvette out in the elements for an entire month: A hail storm. We do have a storm cover for the car, but given everything else we needed to bring in the limited cargo space - it just wasn’t practical to bring the cover along. So what do you think the odds are of hitting a hail storm during a trip like this. Apparently, about 100% for us.

During the later evening hours after we got into Hot Springs, SD several thunderstorms rolled through the mountains in succession. Lots of wind and lots of rain for periods, but they were in and gone quick. Somewhere around 11:00pm, another blew through with 3/4″ hail stones. It lasted a terrifying 5 minutes before it turned completely to rain and became clear that the hail portion of the storm had ended.

Fortunately, no damage to the car…..just shortened Jeff’s life by a couple of days. Beyond that, the rest of the evening was uneventful and the following day was a perfect day to make the trek to Deadwood, SD.

Our first stop for the day was at the perpetually in progress memorial for Chief Crazy Horse. This thing is huge and only partially completed. In fact, they are kind of just getting started with this thing. It’s hard to say how big this things really is except to note that all of Mount Rushmore would fit up where Crazy Horse’s face is. They are saying this thing will not be complete for at least another 30 years.

Here is what the memorial is going to look like when it is done.

Along the way through the grassland areas where we also saw lots of Buffalo, these cool little Prarie Dog dudes kept popping up. Rule #1: Don’t feed the Prarie Dogs – it will set you back about $1000 in fines if they caught you. Apparently people food is no good for them.

USA Road trip Kodak picture location numero uno:

After hitting the major monuments and making the drive down the Iron Mountain Road through the mountains, we circled back and headed north again up to Deadwood, SD. This town, originally a gold mining town where Wild Bill Hickock lived (and was killed with his Ace’s & Eight’s dead mans hand of poker), is now a little gambling oasis in the mountains. It kind of reminded us of the older area of Lake Tahoe only without the lake.

Tomorrow we head form Deadwood over to Devil’s Tower and on to Cody, WY to setup for the next day through Yellowstone, Grand Teton and in to Jackson, WY.